Editor's Blog: Chip's Dish

Top Chef Chicago Wraps Up

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It may not have been the most entertaining season, nor did I think it was the best culinary expose, but Top Chef has wrapped up another solid season. Along with many viewers, I breathed a sigh of relief last night when the winner was announced. Lisa came dangerously close to winning but to me that would not have been justified based on her past performance over the course of the season. She simply wasn't as consistent as Richard and Stephanie.

Alas, Richard's consistency failed him at the worst possible time. Fortunately, Stephanie delivered a solid, if not awe-inspiring, performance and claimed the title of first female Top Chef. This seemed to be the first season where the judges appeared to overtly consider past performance in making elimination decisions. There was no clear indication that it was a factor in the final challenge, but one must imagine that it could not be entirely disregarded given the closeness of the battle.

I, for one, am a huge proponent of factoring in past performance. In fact, I would be supportive of each week's challenge merely being one more factor to consider, rather than the overriding concern. Would it take away some of the weekly drama? I doubt it, particularly because you could still use the challenge to see who ends up on the chopping block. But I think the overall skill and execution of each chef should be factored in. Even the best chefs have off nights. And despite what the judges may say, some of the chefs are demonstrably better than others, even if Top Chef does a better job of assembling a quality cast than say Hell's Kitchen.

In any case, congratulations to Stephanie. A job well done. I look forward to another season of Top Chef next year.

Blogging by the Book

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The recipe? Buy a cookbook. Follow a recipe. Take a picture. Blog about it. Repeat.

That's the latest trend in food blogging identified by the Wall Street Journal's Lee Gomes in a piece today that talks about several people who have done just that. It notes that the most famous case was Julie Powell who cooked from Julia Child's epic Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Of course, that blog subsequently became a book and is now slated to be a movie

Today, bloggers are cooking everything from Thomas Keller masterpieces to simple baked bread. Riding the coattails of a popular cookbook can certainly be a good way to generate traffic, at least for the short term. In Powell's case, she turned it into a long-term success, but others will have to chart their own paths.

Obviously, this delivers a clear benefit to the cookbook authors themselves, as it prolongs the publicity for a project. Of course, if the recipes turn out disastrously, that may not be beneficial, but in most cases it seems these blogs are started by fans who are far less likely than others to be truly critical of the cookbook.

Certainly a notable phenomenon and one to watch to see how it stands the test of time.

You Can Go Home Again

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It has been a while since I last had more than one meal in the same week in Portsmouth, NH, the small town where I grew up on the coast of the Granite State. I live only an hour away, yet I tend to drive an hour in a different direction to go to Boston when I want to explore the region's restaurant scene. To be honest, when I was younger, the Port City didn't have the reputation as a culinary destination, and I never bothered to see if that had changed.

Last week I found out that it has indeed changed -- for the better. Over the course of three days I explored a number of downtown eateries and came away with a serious appreciation for the city as a proper food destination. You will likely hear more about some of the chefs and restaurants I encountered in these pages in the not-too-distant future.

In the meantime, I can unhesitatingly recommend three restaurants I tried out on my recent adventure. These establishments are all no more than a few years old, but all managed to make a real impression with me on my initial visits.

The Dunaway Restaurant
in historic Strawberry Banke recently underwent an ownership change, but the old staff remains. And that's a good thing as Chef Ben Hasty brings big city cuisine to this town of just over 20,000 people. The 23 year-old Hasty's time as an extern at the famed French Laundry in California clearly influences his attention to detail, both in each dish's composition as well as in the meticulous appearance of each plate. The fact that he brings in produce from his family's nearby farm only adds to the allure. You may choose to explore one of the chef's tasting menus or dine a la carte. Either way you will enjoy a fine dining experience in an atmosphere reminiscent of an old New England tavern.

Right around the corner from The Dunaway is Victory 96 State Street. The name's a mouthful, but the food is what you will find most satisfying. Chef Duncan Boyd brings considerable experience, having worked for some of the great chefs of the past several decades, including Jasper White at that chef's fine dining restaurant in Boston called Jasper's. The Maryland native moved on to spend considerable time working in the nation's capital before heading to Portsmouth to be closer to his wife's family. The menu is relatively brief, but the dishes I tried were all well-executed and quite seasonal. There was plenty of asparagus to be had, one of my favorite springtime vegetables, along with a nice spring garlic soup -- something I have seen with increasing frequency on restaurant menus this year. Alas, the menu changed the day after I ate there, so you will have to find your own gems.

Last, but not least, may I suggest the Black Trumpet on Ceres Street. Barely a year old, this establishment seeks to fill the shoes of some pretty lofty former tenants, including the Blue Strawberry and Lindbergh's Crossing. I never had a chance to dine at either predecessor, but their acclaim is widely touted within the local community. Chef Evan Mallett takes a bit more creative approach to his dishes, likely a result of a diverse career that started as a line cook, took him into food writing, and back to cooking. Along the way he and his wife operated a Cajun restaurant and gourmet food store in Mexico when he wasn't working in Portsmouth kitchens. Today, Chef Mallett brings that experience to the diner in the form of an eclectic menu that incorporates Mediterranean, African, and New England influences with French technique. And for a peak inside the Evan's personality, you can check out his blog, a bit of a rarity for a chef.

For a before or after dinner drink, I found the Green Monkey to be an enjoyable pit stop. The bartender I encountered was just as comfortable mixing old-time classic cocktails as spinning up the creative concoctions that most bars become known for today.

I guess this all proves that you can go home again. And in my case, I know this visit makes me want to go home again and again to sample the culinary pleasures of the town where I grew up.

A Great Food Pages Resource

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Chef David Ross of Lucca Restaurant in Boston has assembled a pretty nifty web site that tracks news about the cost of ingredients frequently seen in fine dining establishments. But for the foodies among us -- admit it, you're probably one if you're reading this -- he has another great resource that he just created.

It's a simple page that shows headlines from the food sections of major newspapers, constantly updated. If you want a quick look at what's being talked about by the major dailies, there's no easier place to go than this. I know it will be a frequent stop for my own reading pleasure.
Tim Carman came up with a great idea for his Young & Hungry column with the Washington City Paper. He's inviting professional chefs in the area to visit local kitchens and come up with gourmet meals based on whatever may be on hand.

He started out by inviting Equinox's Todd Gray to his own apartment to see what might be great ingredients might be lurking that Tim and his wife had overlooked. (Chef Gray was also featured on this week's Cork & Knife TV Conversation.)

Here's a short video Tim made of the event, or you can read the column here.

Wine Kegs

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The inimitable Gary Vaynerchuk tastes some wine in kegs -- I kid you not -- on a recent episode of Wine Library TV. It's an intriguing concept, and I encourage you to check it out. For some reason it doesn't turn me off like the idea of screwtops does.
Let's face it, you're reading Cork & Knife for the same reason that we all produce content for it. We love fine food and drink.

But imagine what it would be like if you were unable to taste anything. That's exactly what faced Chef Grant Achatz of Chicago's famed Alinea restaurant. He has had an ongoing battle to save his ability to taste -- and his life.

The New Yorker offers an excellent article describing Achatz's battle, and I highly recommend it to all our readers.
One of the things that I have really enjoyed about the social media world is the ability to connect with smart, interesting people in the real world. Even though Cork & Knife straddles the line between traditional and new media, we want to make sure we're still fostering that sense of community.

To that end, Cork & Knife will be sponsoring food blogger dinners in various cities in the coming months. Specifically, we will be planning to do some in Boston, New York, and Washington, but I'd like to add some venues in other parts of the country as well.

The idea is to get a small group together to enjoy some good food, some interesting libations, and of course excellent conversation among people passionate about food and drink. 

If you are a food blogger (or drink blogger or anything similar) and are interested, please email me or leave a comment below. If you want to suggest an additional city, by all means do so. 
serviceincluded.jpgI'm definitely coming late to this party, but I just read Phoebe Damrosch's Service Included, a book about the author's time working as a back server and captain at Thomas Keller's Per Se in New York. The subtitle of the book "Four-Star Secrets of an Eavesdropping Waiter" is enticing yet also a bit deceptive. While Phoebe does share some tales of overheard conversations and observations of diners, the book is largely about service in a just-opened four-star restaurant as it intertwines with her personal life.

Don't get me wrong, the book is quite enjoyable, but if you're looking for gossip about celebrities, anonymous or otherwise, you've come to the wrong place. There are morsels here and there, but  you're more likely to be satisfied if you are interested in behind the scenes tales of fine dining establishments. Those of you who find the process of New York Times restaurant reviews intriguing will be even happier, as Ms. Damrosch details her numerous encounters with critic Frank Bruni, as she was frequently tapped to be the captain serving his table.

Ms. Damrosch validates what I have heard from others in New York about Mr. Bruni and that is that he is fairly down-to-earth and doesn't take himself too seriously. He also doesn't attempt to be recognized, but nor does he go to the great lengths of other Times reviewers to be entirely anonymous.

Over the course of this quick read, the author manages to tell her own love story, expertly interwoven through the restaurant tale. Of course, the fact that she was dating a co-worker made it that much easier to integrate the two stories.

This book will likely appeal to foodies and industry people alike. It pulls back enough of the curtain on restaurant employee life to entice those who frequently dine out, while dishing it out on customers sufficiently to make insiders smile. Sprinkled throughout the book are quick tips for diners, most of them designed to make the server's life easier (and ultimately the diner's experience more enjoyable).

All in all, an enjoyable read.
I recently had a reservation at Radius, a well-regarded restaurant in Boston. I had been looking forward to dining there for some time because I have heard from a number of former cooks there how good it is. (I put a lot of faith in recommendations from industry people and am usually well-rewarded for it. More on that later.)

Unfortunately, a water main break in the Financial District of the city had brought many restaurants in the area to a standstill, and Radius would be no different. The day of my reservation I received a phone call from a nice young lady who informed me that the restaurant would be closed. She suggested I might be interested in trying out one of the other places that shares the same ownership. I said sure and asked which would be the best bet. I told her I had been interested in the Radius tasting menu.

Although both of the other places they own offer tasting menus, she suggested Great Bay was closest in style to Radius. I had never heard of Great Bay, but I'm willing to try most anything. The worst that can happen is that I will find myself an excuse to depart mid-meal if I am severely disappointed (and that rarely happens).

In this case, I have to thank serendipity for a great gift. I ended up having a tremendous dining experience that I would never have had otherwise. I might never have made it to Great Bay, in fact, but for this turn of events.

Upon taking my seat in the spacious dining room (yes, I dine solo at tables with no regrets), the manager brought me a complimentary glass of champagne with apologies that Radius had been unable to honor my reservation. This was a nice touch, as Radius obviously had no control over the situation. The young lady I had spoken with on the phone that afternoon had also passed along my interest in a tasting menu, and the manager assured me that they could offer something quite delicious.

He was right. I enjoyed seven delightful courses before I finally cried "Uncle!" and indicated I was quite full. The meal began with a heavy focus on raw seafood, starting with oysters topped with shrimp and American caviar. Next up some ceviche and then three different kinds  of sashimi.

I then enjoyed the fruits of the ocean with a bit of heat applied, including a perfectly cooked diver scallop with shitake mushroom puree and ramps. This was followed by an intriguing dish: skate wing over pastrami and beans. There was just enough pastrami to add an interesting salty note, but not so much as to overpower the fish. The final fish course would be halibut with a green garlic crust. 

These first six courses were a great tour of some of the best seafood I have enjoyed in a single sitting, but there was one more dish to come. Throughout the course of the meal, I had the chance to chat with Chef Adam Fuller and we discussed everything from food to the Red Sox (my reservation was on the later side and there was a game at nearby Fenway which apparently causes a bit of a lull as many locals try to avoid the area on game nights).

Based on our conversations, Chef Fuller thought I might enjoy a thorough tasting of lamb. Not just any lamb mind you, but one that he had brought in from a local Massachusetts farm and had butchered that very day. Talk about fresh! On the plate in front of me there were five different preparations, including a rillette, breast, and chop. Even though I was quite full at this point, I enjoyed a bit of each before calling it a night. 

Just as satisfying as the meal itself was the fact that Chef Fuller helped make the following night's dinner particularly enjoyable as well -- even though it wasn't at Great Bay. From our talk he knew that I am a big fan of offal (things like brain and sweetbreads) so he suggested I check out KO Prime, helmed by a good friend of his, Chef Jamie Bissonnette. That, too, was a memorable experience, but that's a story for another day.
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