Washington is in the midst of something of a wine-bar explosion. A handful of inviting spots have opened in the last couple of years, energizing the D.C. wine scene.

But people who leave the city and end up in the Washington ‘burbs have been out of luck if they are looking for a true wine bar where they can try a lot of different wines (or just sit happily sipping for a few hours). The long drive into D.C. sometimes seems insurmountable when you are looking for a hassle-free evening.

That’s why it is so exciting that Silver Spring residents can now choose from 40 wines by the glass at The Wine Press, a European-style wine cellar located in the cozy, romantic, 3600-square-foot lower level of the well-known brunch-and-events-spot Mrs. K’s Toll House.

The Wine Press, where there are more than 600 labels on offer, had its soft opening just before Christmas 2007, and this spring has seen the opening of a 375-square-foot patio made for al fresco dining and drinking.

“This is going to help make it an everyday place,” says Spiro Gioldasis, general manager of The Wine Press and director of Mrs. K’s wine program. Mrs. K’s is thought of by many Washingtonians as something of a special-occasion place, but Gioldasis hopes The Wine Press will be a great complement to the more-formal upstairs - a place you can stop by any evening for a couple of glasses of wine and some small plates.

When Cork & Knife visited with Spiro at The Wine Press back in frigid February, it was like a heavenly cave with a spa-like feeling. We arrived at Mrs. K’s, which is charming like an English country castle, and descended the curvy staircase to what felt like another country. Guests are surrounded by rough rock and brick, bathed in candlelight, and sitting on pretty wrought iron furniture.

Gioldasis chose vintage brick from old Baltimore buildings for the cellar, which was custom-built without a firm. There is even an antique wine press from Kansas, which Gioldasis searched for and eventually found online.

And you might not be a by-the-glass sort of visitor; for those who like to commit to a bottle, 60 percent of the 600-plus bottles on the list are under $60. And if you are in the mood for a splurge, Mr. Spiro has options for you. To look at the wine list, go to the Mrs. K’s web site and click “wine.” From there you’ll be able to look at red or white.

But let’s get back to the 40-wines-by-the-glass part. It’s expensive, one would think, to offer this many, but Gioldasis has help from technology. He purchased a wine preservation gadget, for lack of a better term, that he has wall-mounted behind the long, lovely bar. The thing cost him a serious penny, but it enables him to re-seal each bottle he opens.

Gioldasis is a proud guy, and in talking to him, you get the sense he ought to be. He lived in Florence, SC until the age of 8, when his parents decided to take the family back to Greece; they stayed for 16 years, and Gioldasis learned to make wine while he was there. That knowledge shows in the way he talks about wine, and his enthusiasm is contagious.

The Wine Press is an interesting endeavor for a few reasons. First of all, it’s an addition to an established and very successful restaurant. People who know it as “Mrs. K’s” need to know that in the basement of this sweet, charming Tudor on Route 29, there is a quiet, private, romantic and absolutely huge room where you can relax with just a drink or with some light food.

Secondly, The Wine Press is an upscale wine establishment in Montgomery County, Md., which is infamous for its stifling wine laws. Have the county’s residents given up and just resigned themselves to the limited wine selection (or maybe decided just to stick with beer)? Will they come out in force to support a true, European-style wine cellar?

Sitting there sharing a glass of 2001 Tommasi Amarone with him, you can tell Gioldasis is both a realist and an optimist. He knows it is a beautiful space. The food is good and wine-friendly. And he provides diners and drinkers with accessible servers who are smart about wine and can chat with patrons about it in a relaxed way.

You can also tell Gioldasis takes breaks, but not really. He has that energy level of someone who rarely stops — but it is clear he is no stranger to the simple joy of taking a moment out to find a nice place to perch and sip a glass of something delicious.