From the Sublime to the Bizarre, and Back Again
By Lauren SchulzMay 28, 2008
When there is this much interesting food news, it is hard to know where to start. We picked up this morning’s Washington Post and saw these words way up high on the front page, splashed above the paper’s flag: “Hold the Anchovies! Or Not. A Special Pizza Issue of the Food Section.” That is a darn good tease in a pizza-obsessed town like Washington.
No? You don’t think D.C. is pie-crazy? Some might say New York is the town that comes to mind when they hear the p-word. But in our humble opinion, Washingtonians are the most pizza-hungry because good pies are just a little harder to find here in the D.C. area. Where are you going to go for a super-thin, deliciously greasy and crisp triangle slice around here? It’s in our nature to want what we can’t have — or search for things that are not easy to get.
Anyway, the Post plays on that idea with its Pizza Issue. The highlights? “Restaurant Pies That Are Hard to Top” is one of them. We can vouch for Comet Ping-Pong in Northwest and Mia’s in Bethesda, Md.; the rest you’ll have to try and report back to us.
Of course, the Good to Go feature this week focuses on takeaway pizza. “Some pies don’t travel well,” writes Walter Nicholls, and how true is that? Sadly, we have yet to find a pizza parlor in Washington that will send a pizza to our door that isn’t doughy, clammy and depressing by the time it arrives. This article recommends a handful of places whose “pies … passed the travel test.”
Don’t miss Joe Yonan’s recs for best frozen pizzas, too. The upshot: Just don’t do it.
Cutest item in the whole section: Mamma Mia! Pizza Beer. “The world’s first culinary beer,” according to those who make it. They actually used garlic, tomatoes, oregano and basil “in the mash and hops processes” when they first started making it. Bonnie Benwick, who writes about it, reports that the stuff really has the “aroma of pizza topping,” particularly the herbs.
And if delicious pizza is sublime, then the “miracle fruit” is bizarre.
As we read this NYT article about a little red berry, we kept wondering to ourselves, Is this for real? It is that kind of thing. The miracle fruit is a small red berry that supposedly “rewires the way the palate perceives sour flavors for an hour or so, rendering lemons as sweet as candy.” This article talks about this berry in the context of a “flavor-tripping party,” which makes the whole thing even more Cat-in-the-Hat. Check it out to learn what miracle fruit is, where it comes from (West Africa) and the science behind how it messes with your sense of flavor (the stuff “binds with the taste buds”).
Returning to something more straightforwardly delicious: Duck dogs. What about heritage pork or buffalo dogs? Yes to all. We read and wrote about Regina Schrambling’s piece that touted D’Artagnan’s meaty new offerings, and then we actually went to the company’s site to order some duck dogs. Then, today, we saw that Florence Fabricant highlighted them in her NYT Food Stuff column. If you are a lucky New Yorker, you can buy them at Fairway or Food Emporium for $6 or $8, depending on what kind you get.



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