
I'm definitely coming late to this party, but I just read Phoebe Damrosch's
Service Included, a book about the author's time working as a back server and captain at Thomas Keller's Per Se in New York. The subtitle of the book "Four-Star Secrets of an Eavesdropping Waiter" is enticing yet also a bit deceptive. While Phoebe does share some tales of overheard conversations and observations of diners, the book is largely about service in a just-opened four-star restaurant as it intertwines with her personal life.
Don't get me wrong, the book is quite enjoyable, but if you're looking for gossip about celebrities, anonymous or otherwise, you've come to the wrong place. There are morsels here and there, but you're more likely to be satisfied if you are interested in behind the scenes tales of fine dining establishments. Those of you who find the process of New York Times restaurant reviews intriguing will be even happier, as Ms. Damrosch details her numerous encounters with critic Frank Bruni, as she was frequently tapped to be the captain serving his table.
Ms. Damrosch validates what I have heard from others in New York about Mr. Bruni and that is that he is fairly down-to-earth and doesn't take himself too seriously. He also doesn't attempt to be recognized, but nor does he go to the great lengths of other Times reviewers to be entirely anonymous.
Over the course of this quick read, the author manages to tell her own love story, expertly interwoven through the restaurant tale. Of course, the fact that she was dating a co-worker made it that much easier to integrate the two stories.
This book will likely appeal to foodies and industry people alike. It pulls back enough of the curtain on restaurant employee life to entice those who frequently dine out, while dishing it out on customers sufficiently to make insiders smile. Sprinkled throughout the book are quick tips for diners, most of them designed to make the server's life easier (and ultimately the diner's experience more enjoyable).
All in all, an enjoyable read.
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