Forget Apathy. Here's to Audacity.
By lschulzNovember 14, 2007
Even horrid gift-givers keep trying, year after year, to do something creative. Maybe it was a vacuum or a toaster last year (those bombed, BTW), and this year the person shakes it up with a gift certificate to Container Store. Perhaps it's always Tiffany jewelry, or Burberry ties, and this time around it's something quirky from a boutique. The point we are making is this: It is always nice when people try, even if it feels like the same-old same-old. Everybody gets a kick out of it.
That is the idea for Thanksgiving '07. Many Americans might be feeling the country has been in a bit of a rut. But to quote FDR on the topic of apathy, "above all, try something." Don't totally give in to the routine; mix it up this time around with the help of those who are paid to inspire you.
The L.A. Times wins the prize for most enthusiasm with its Thanksgiving package, "The Colors of Thanksgiving." In a series of articles, they cover "the harmony of greens," the bread and turkey "burnished to a glow," "burnt sienna sweet potatoes," and more. It might not work on everyone, but anybody feeling like they just can't face this meal again just might get a new attitude after reading these stories and recipes. Definitely check out the cranberry-and-fig tart and the "ultimate turkey" recipes.
The Dallas Morning News does the same, with a roundup of chefs' favorite T-giving recipes. Dirty rice stuffing and sweet potatoes topped with spicy shrimp -- these are definitely good, sophisticated ways to break free from the usual. This can be tricky, since many dinner guests will bellyache upon hearing any nonsense about "trying something different this year." Resist the urge, people, to shame your hosts into doing the same thing they always do.
Another nice option for stir-crazy cooks is to have the goal of improving on last year, but set the bar at a reasonable height. Vow to make insanely delicious and perfect potatoes, or gravy, or dessert, but don't try to do an amazing rendition of every dish on the table. The New York Times comes up with a mashed-potato story that gets kind of philosophical: My kind of mashed potatoes aren't your kind, and what in the world is a mashed potato, anyway, really? It gets crazy if you think about it too much. We also love the Times article on side dishes so good that vegetarians can happily make a feast out of them.
There are two gravy items worth looking at if you are thinking of trying something new: One in the Washington Post, which is a nice story that includes recipes for fig gravy, gravy dashed with sherry and a cider-herb variety, and The N.Y. Times features a helpful recipe for make-ahead gravy
as well as Mark Bittman's rundown of a few different, funkier concoctions to moisten bites of bird.
We don't agree that "the three pillars of the Thanksgiving dinner" are turkey, cranberry sauce and pie. It's that third one we take issue with. What about petit fours, or chocolate mousse topped with cream, or maybe an assortment of sorbets along with a box of nice chocolate? Those can be less heavy than a pie, and more refreshing after all that hot and hearty food. Then again, these pie ideas don't sound half bad.
On the pies front, if you are going traditional, Florence Fabricant's Food Stuff feature has some tips for pumpkin pie bakers. She also highlights two instruments available from that cook's retail therapy dream palace, Sur La Table, that we are planning to check out once we are off the clock.
Fretting about dry birds from Novembers past? Want to learn more about brining? The Washington Post will help you out. Then again, you could skip the whole roasting thing and deep-fry that bird.
If you are a Hot Plates regular and you recall last week (sometimes we don't even remember yesterday -- don't feel bad), the phrase "heritage turkeys" rings a bell. Here is where to get one if you live in the D.C. area. This link includes options for finding locally raised but non-heritage birds.
So as you can see, there is no shortage of ideas for this year's feast. Make your lists, clip a couple of things, bookmark some stuff, and then settle down. Order Thai or something else completely non-American the night before, so that you'll be wholeheartedly craving a hot, rich meal.
Before we go, we'll give one last link to a Washington Post piece about the intersection of food and family culture. "Every family faces the trauma of the Thanksgiving handoff," writes Jane Black. "After years of having the same food at the same house with the same people, someone -- in this case me -- has the audacity to make a change." It all does work out in the end, somehow, even if it ends at a restaurant table. Here's to audacity!



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