Learning to be an Amateur Gourmet
By Chip GriffinSeptember 11, 2007
In the days after the tragic events of September 11, 2001, Adam Roberts -- like most Americans -- sought to escape the haunting images repeated hourly on the TV news, even if only for a moment. What he found was the Food Network. Taking comfort in something somewhat foreign to him (his parents rarely cooked at home), the young law school student began watching Mario Batali, following along from his apartment in Atlanta and beginning his informal culinary education. Six years later, he has a successful blog called The Amateur Gourmet and just recently published a book by the same name. He helps demystify cooking in and dining out for friends and readers alike.
Adam has been gracious enough to conduct a brief Q&A with Cork & Knife, and he will return throughout the day to answer questions posed in the comments section below this article.
Like many others, you grew up with a relatively narrow palate, but now eat virtually anything (at least once). How do you advise people to expand their food horizons?
I suggest trying to think of the foods you hate in a new way. For example, I used to hate mayonnaise--my roommate Diana still does. I thought of it as this greasy, white, chemical substance that non- Jewish people put on their sandwiches. Now I understand that it's egg yolks emulsified with oil. I like egg yolks, I like oil: now I like mayo (especially if it's homemade).
Psychologically speaking, fussy eaters have control issues. I come from a family of control freaks and, consequently, fussy eaters; to cede absolute control to an outside force--a restaurant, a friend, a recipe--takes real mental work. Somehow I escaped the trap and my reward is an endless--seriously endless--world of gastronomic possibility. Every day holds the promise of a new taste sensation.
Plus, I'm not so uptight anymore--I'm much more willing to go with the flow in situations I can't control. There's a link there, as I suggest in the book.
You discussed dining alone at a Joel Robuchon's Paris restaurant. What are your tips for people thinking about dining alone in high-end restaurants?
I'd say, if you can go with someone else: do. It's more fun and more pleasant and, if you're like me, you'll be much less self-conscious. In the book, I ate alone at L'Atelier Joel Robuchon because that was my only chance to eat there (I didn't know it'd open up in New York two years later!) And if you're in a similar situation where you're visiting a city with a restaurant you're dying to try and you have no one to go there with, go alone. I did that recently in Napa when I ate by myself at Ad Hoc.
As for tips, just be yourself--act natural--chat with the staff if they're willing to chat with you. Ask what's good, order a glass of wine. If you're still self-conscious, as most of us are, I'd say bring something to read. And then when the food comes, concentrate on the dish more than you would if you were with someone else. Just don't start talking to it, or people may stare.
Most importantly, remember that you're there because you care enough to go alone--most people don't care that much about food--and, in that sense, this meal should be a reward. Think of it as a chance to do something you love without any distraction. When you look at it that way, dining alone can be very enjoyable.
In your interview with Michael Ruhlman, you talked a bit about your writing process. What advice would you have for aspiring food writers in our audience?
Food writing is like all writing: it requires a voice, it requires skill, it requires persistence. The best advice I can give is to read EVERYTHING. When I wrote this book, I read MFK Fisher's "The Gastronomical Me" and "How To Cook A Wolf," both excellent examples of what food writing is and what it can be. But don't stop there: read all kinds of books, not just about food, always be reading. I'm often shocked when I meet someone who wants to be a writer who's not a reader. If this is going to be your trade, then you have to know your trade. Challenge yourself. Read Joyce (I'm about to start "Ulysses," scary!), read what's popular (Harry Potter, The Da Vinci Code) but read it all. Saturate your brain with writing so that when you sit down to write, you understand the tools available to you, you have a sense of where your writing fits into the grand scheme of things.
Brainstorm on paper and use that brainstorming to organize and structure whatever it is you're working on. For example, I began this book by thinking about all the things I'd want to know about if I were going to read an introductory primer on food and cooking. In a notebook I scribbled words like "knives," "market," "restaurants," "eating alone." Then I put it in some kind of order so the stuff at the beginning led to the stuff at the end. I repeated this process over and over again as I wrote the book--new ideas came in, old ones went out.
Ultimately, the book that you see on the shelf is the result of constant brainstorming, structuring, and rethinking.
Your Mom and Dad make frequent appearances in the book, including an episode where your Dad threw some food at your Mom shortly after they were married. Has either one said anything to you about including that in the book?
At first they were wary of me telling that story, now they think it's funny. My dad, though, didn't like how I painted him to be a barbarian when it comes to what and how he eats. Lately, he's tried to reform himself by ordering more interesting dishes. He moves the food around on his plate, sniffs, and after a few bites, trades with my mom who warily accepts whatever weird thing he ordered. But at least he's trying.
What part of the experience of creating this book will stick with you the most?
Lunch with Ruth Reichl, absolutely. She's a hero of mine--her writing is brave, smart, witty, observant, and important. Eating with her was both dread-inducing and awe-inspiring; she engaged me, though, as an equal and for that I'll be forever grateful.
Otherwise, the actual process of writing the book--from first draft to end product--was such an educational experience, I'll use the lessons I learned for the rest of my career. I owe a huge debt of gratitude to my editor, Philip Rappaport, for showing me what it takes to go from a huge mishmosh of ideas and stories to a swiftly sailing vessel. My book zips along and I have him to thank.
You have said that some of your initial chapter ideas were left on the cutting room floor, as it were. Are there any chapters you wish you had been able to include that you'd like to discuss?
I don't regret cutting the chapters I had to cut--I think their absence makes the book better. One was a chapter called "Challenge Yourself." For that chapter, I challenged myself to make bacon from Michael Ruhlman's "Charcuterie" book. Well, the process of making bacon was so simple--buy pork belly, sprinkle with seasonings, refrigerate, cook at low temperature--that there wasn't enough drama to feed a whole chapter. I had a chapter about stretching a chicken-- roasting it, using the bones to make a stock--only, again, everything went so smoothly there really wasn't a story to tell. And that was the main criteria for what made the book: is this a story worth telling? Will it instruct as it delights? Those were my standards and I'm glad I stuck to them.
Other than your blog, do you have any plans for more food writing in the future?
Absolutely. I have one idea in the works that I'm really excited about, but I can't say anymore. Plus I'd like to do some fiction writing and non-food writing, so stay tuned for that.
I have enjoyed this new website and commend Mr. Griffin for giving us a new twist on the same old food mags. I can tell he loves food A to Z! I thought it might be helpful as part of this piece to give some tips on basic kitchen utensils and goods that should normally be kept on hand. Being an amateur gourmet gets old fast if you run to store for every recipe!
Thanks for the great interview! While I am certainly far from a top chef (or any chef), I definitely enjoy fine dining out. I’m curious as to what tips you or Adam may have for a person just learning to cook?
What's the seeingly exotic food that was the biggest disappointment to you? (In Mexico, I tried giant ant eggs that were just tasteless mush.)
Great interview, I'm looking forward to reading the book! I have a question for you. I'm curious as to what has been your best and worst dining experience outside the United States and any tips you might have for ordering food internationally.
Thanks Adam and Chip - Fantastic info… I laughed out loud at your descriptions of expanding the palates of picky eaters! While I love food, I too am afflicted with mayo-phobia and a few other food quirks I am trying to overcome. Other than introducing the items slowly into your food in appealing ways (ie: my husband made me homemade mayo and served it on fresh-ground hamburger, and I was very surprised how tasty it is!) – Do you have other tips on how to transform finicky eaters? Alas, my side of the family is even more difficult to cook for than I am…
This interview is great. I have many friends who are weary of any dish that doesn’t consist of chicken and potatoes. When dinning out this can seriously limit the restaurants we go to. Do you have any tips on how to approach them in expanding their palate and where to start?
I am interested as to whether you have kept up with watching the Food Network and if you do, who is your favorite Food Network chef? Has this person changed as your knowledge of food has evolved?
We are blessed with so many inventive chefs at all levels of the culinary spectrum. But we are often cursed with the mediocre, and downright poor, dining room staff that they employ. Why do you think there is such a disconnect.
Some great questions. I'll let Adam address them himself first, but a number of them are definitely spoken to in the book. It's a great, quick read and I encourage anyone interested in this interview and the follow-up questions to pick up a copy.
What are your top three favorite restaurants in the US?
I'm always interested in trying new dishes myself. Do you have any more easily attainable foods that you would consider a 'must try' for your readers? I live in New England so if you know of something specific for this arena, I’d love to give it a shot!
Seems like I'm not the only one with a finicky eater in the family (my son eats exactly five foods: pizza, bread, hummus, smooth yogurt, and waffles)! I've tried the reverse of what you do with the food (You like the cheese on pizza and the tomato sauce? Why not try a slice of cheese or some tomato?) to no avail. I'm relieved to read you grew out of it, as I'm tired of finding ways to hide vegetables in bread (I've eaten enough carrot zucchini muffins to make *me* tired of them!). If you have any other tips on what to do, I'd be anxious to hear them. (Although I think it may be hopeless, as I suspect it's much like your situation where it was a control issue more than a food issue.)
Adam, I hope your book is as edgy, unique, and entertaining as your blog. Quick question – what would you say is your go-to source for recipes?
Just to update readers, Adam is away from his computer right now, but he has seen many of the responses so far and looks forward to responding later today. Feel free to keep commenting.
Love your blog, Adam. And congrats on the book. What prompted you to start your blog? As in, what was the significant event that led you to log on and write your first entry?
Hi Cork and Knife Readers!
Thank you for your wonderful questions. I am going to go through them one by one and hopefully by the time I finish answering them the olive oil rosemary cake I'm baking will be done. It's from the Babbo cookbook and it smells fantastic.
T. Caswell,
I recommend a pot, a pan, a wooden spoon, some knives, a cutting board and a mixing bowl. You can get a LOT done with just that. As for pantry staples, if you like to bake: sugar, flour, butter, vanilla extract. For all other cooking, olive oil, Kosher salt, fresh pepper, and then--as you'll learn in Chapter 2 of the book--anything that works as a backdrop ingredient: pasta, polenta, and so on.
Jen,
If you're just learning to cook, I suggest cooking the food you love to eat! That seems obvious but I often find it difficult to decide what to make for dinner and the best meals are always the ones that speak to whatever I'm craving at that moment. For example, right now I'm craving chicken chili. So I'm going to make that and I bet I will love it---and loving what you cook offers great encouragement to keep cooking.
Dave,
I'm not sure I've eaten enough exotic food to answer your question. Ok, to be honest--and don't tell anyone--the bean curd porridge I ate with Robyn, The Girl Who Ate Everything, in K-Town recently was a bit disappointing. I found the texture unpleasant and the flavors to be a bit muted. I think I just wasn't ready for it.
Steve,
Read the "Dine Alone" chapter of my book and you will read my best and worst dining experience outside the US all wrapped up into one story! As far as tips for dining internationally, be brave, do your research before you go. The internet is an amazing resource these days and you can track down great places to eat with very little effort. And be daring---order food outside your comfort zone.
Mackenzie B.,
Picky eaters are often picky eaters because that's part of what defines them: they like to control what they put in their mouths. The truth is there's really not much you can do except to humiliate them and chastise them enough that you destroy their souls. If you're lucky enough to make that happen, they'll eat whatever you tell them to!
Colleen,
Again, I think fussy eaters--especially ones who are past their formative years--are difficult to change. See the humiliation advice above and if that doesn't work buy my book! Chapter 3 addresses this very subject.
Jenine,
I love Mario Batali, always have, always will. His show is the most informative--culturally, historically, gastronomically--cooking show on TV. Otherwise, I really like Lydia Bastianich, Jacques Pepin (both on PBS) and, of course, The Barefoot Contessa.
Judy in DC,
That's not really been my experience. Most of the service I've experienced in my life has been really positive---so I can't really answer your question.
Heidi,
Top 3:
1. Blue Hill Stone Barns
2. Chez Panisse
3. Jean-Georges
SniperD,
The possibilities are limitless. I like to try things that are challenging and new. Lobster's great to make at home. I just made a terrific Ribeye. I'd say buy some ingredients you don't know anything about, go home, search recipes on the internet and go from there. That's the best way to do it, especially if you buy the ingredients at the farmer's market (see Chapter Two!)
Jenny,
I just had breakfast with a reporter who said she was told by a chef that the best way to deal with finicky children is to make whatever you're going to make for dinner and to say, "This is what's for dinner. You don't have to eat it, but that's all there is." I know that might cause a frenzy, but I think over time they'll change their ways. I suggest reading the introduction to Jeffrey Steingarten's "The Man Who Ate Everything" which suggests that all taste is learned, not genetic. Your kids just need to unlearn their habits. Tell them you'll by them iPhones if they eat everything on their plate :)
Ryan,
I love using Epicurious.com when I have an ingredient I don't know what to do with. Otherwise, I'm a big fan of Mario's cookbooks. I also like the recipes in "Cooking For Mr. Latte," The Barefoot Contessa Cookbooks, The Gourmet Cookbook, and so on.
Martha Stewart's pretty good too.
Heather,
Hate to say read the book, but that question is answered in the last chapter!
Thanks again for all of your questions. These were fun to answer.
Thanks, Adam, for taking the time to answer all of those questions. We really appreciate it and I know I learned a lot from the book and these answers.
Thanks Adam - I'll work on transforming my own palate and whittle away at their souls one dish at a time [impish grin]. Definitely looking forward to getting the book this weekend!
That was a great interview! Adam, thanks for revealing this info. I look forward to reading your book.
What is one dish that people often refuse to try, but then end up loving once they actually eat it?
In my experience a frequent item that is enjoyed by those who get over what it is and try it is sweetbreads -- at least those who don't think it is a dessert when they order it! (I have seen it happen.)